How to Stop a Leaky Faucet Before It Wastes Water

A dripping faucet is easy to ignore — but that steady drip-drip-drip adds up to thousands of gallons per year and a noticeably higher water bill. Most faucet leaks come down to a single worn part inside the handle: a cartridge, an O-ring, or a valve seat. Fixing it usually takes 30–60 minutes and costs under $20 in parts.

What Type of Faucet Do I Have?

Before you start, identify your faucet type — the repair approach differs for each:

• Single-handle cartridge — the most common type in modern homes. One handle controls both hot and cold via an internal cartridge
• Two-handle cartridge or compression — separate hot and cold handles, each with its own internal cartridge or rubber seat washer
• Ball-type — single handle that moves over a ball mechanism (common in kitchen faucets from Delta and similar brands)

For most homeowners in the Tampa Bay area, you are dealing with a single-handle cartridge faucet. That is what we will focus on here.

How Do I Fix a Leaking Single-Handle Faucet?

1. Turn off the water — close both hot and cold shut-off valves under the sink. Open the faucet to release pressure
2. Remove the handle — look for a set screw under a decorative cap on the handle. Use a hex key (Allen wrench) to remove it, then lift or pull the handle off
3. Remove the cartridge retaining clip or nut — this holds the cartridge in place. A retaining clip slides out with pliers; a nut unscrews counterclockwise
4. Pull the old cartridge straight out — cartridge removal tools (about $10) make this easier if the cartridge is stuck from mineral buildup
5. Install the new cartridge — align it in the same orientation as the old one (hot/cold direction matters) and press it firmly into place
6. Reassemble — replace the retaining clip or nut, handle, and decorative cap
7. Turn water back on slowly — open the shut-off valves and test. Check under the sink for leaks at the connections

Where Do I Get the Right Replacement Part?

Look for the faucet brand name (usually stamped on the body or handle) and the model number (check under the sink or on the original paperwork). Take the old cartridge to the hardware store for a direct match if you cannot find the model number. Moen, Delta, Kohler, and Pfister each use proprietary cartridges — they are not interchangeable.

Florida's hard water is particularly tough on faucet internals. Mineral deposits build up on cartridge seals and valve seats, causing leaks to develop faster than in areas with softer water. If you are replacing a cartridge, clean the valve body with white vinegar and a brush before installing the new one.

What If the Leak Is at the Base of the Faucet?

A leak that pools around the base of the faucet (rather than dripping from the spout) usually indicates a failed O-ring on the faucet body. This repair requires removing the spout to access the O-rings underneath. Apply plumber's grease to the new O-rings before reinstalling — this helps them seal and extends their life.

When Should I Replace the Entire Faucet?

Repair makes sense when the faucet is relatively new and the fix is a simple part swap. Replace the whole faucet when:

• The faucet is heavily corroded or pitted
• Repair parts are discontinued or hard to find
• The faucet has been repaired multiple times and keeps leaking
• You want to upgrade to a more water-efficient model
• The shut-off valves under the sink also need replacing (do both jobs at once)

When to Call a Pro

If the shut-off valves under the sink are corroded, frozen, or leaking, do not force them — a broken shut-off valve means water everywhere. Our light plumbing service handles faucet repairs, replacements, and shut-off valve upgrades. If a simple cartridge swap does not stop the drip, give us a call and we will sort it out without the headache.